Seasonal Scandinavian cuisine from Icelandic chef Aggi Sverrisson
Iceland is having a moment. Their Euro journey might be over (as in the football not the currency) but with their Scandinavian good looks and Viking clap chant, they were nearly every European’s second team. Except England’s of course.
Texture restaurant off Portman Square in Marylebone, is technically Modern European with Scandinavian influences, but Chef Patron Agnar Sverrisson, and Head Chef Andrew Wandless ensure that Iceland runs through its veins.
Located in a gorgeous Georgian house, Texture has successfully integrated a modern restaurant into a classic living space. Cream soft furnishings and swathes of beige sit comfortably with the angular, high-ceilinged formality of the dining room. The other diners were a mix of wealthy tourists, and wealthy locals. The waiting staff with their European charms and dining sensibilities reminded me of what we stand to lose with our vote on the EU. But enough of the Brexit rants.
Texture is worthy of its Michelin star rating. We started a glass of bubbles accompanied by bacon popcorn. I’m not a fan of bacon. I’m not particularly keen on popcorn. However this combination is spectacular. So much so that my speech-writing co-diner, insisted that we have another bowl follow us to our table.
The food is nothing short of astonishing. Our selection of starters, from the hot smoked Scottish salmon with Cornish caviar, to the Thai influenced Scottish scallops were delightful. The main courses were even better. The Black Angus beef, rib eye-chargrilled, ox cheek, horseradish, and girolle mushrooms dish was a wonderful mix of flavours and … textures. Boom boom. The star main for me was the cod – a fish that I generally find underwhelming. This was the complete opposite, Seasoned with Icelandic salt, and accompanies by avocado, brandade (an emulsion of salt cod and olive oil), tomatoes and chorizo this cod dish was amazing. The best cod dish I’ve eaten in a restaurant, and one that I only reluctantly shared.
The wine selected by Head Sommelier Adrien Butko was exceptional in its quality and pairing. The service, expertly managed by Robert Dokler was attentive, but unobtrusive.
Was there anything to complain about? Well the prices are not for the faint of heart, but if you believe the old adage, then you get the quality you pay for here. I’d like to be more critical but I can’t. Iceland may have been every football fan’s second team. Texture might just end up your first.
On a scale of * to *****
Wining and dining *****
Serving and pouring *****
Romantic liaisons ****
34 Portman Street, London W1H 7BY
+44 (0) 20 7224 0028