Cocktails, music and brasserie style dining
Not a lot of people watched Boardwalk Empire. Arguably over-hyped, definitely underrated, this gangster drama sought to do for Prohibition Atlantic what the Sopranos did for New Jersey. Make them interesting in other words. Nevertheless if you had watched it, you would have been intrigued by the mix of fictional and real-life gangsters that dominated prohibition and depression America. Now you might ask exactly what this has to do with a cocktail bar in teenies Fulham for which I’d direct you to the website.
The Lucky Pig collection of bars, lends their origin to the 1920s Prohibition Era: “Lucky” based on the notorious American mobster and Boardwalk Empire stalwart, Lucky Luciano; and “Pig” as in the Blind Pig watering holes where people gathered during the ban for evenings of debauchery and illicit drinking. Their mission is to “bring to life the very best of the 1920s, fashioning environments in which people simply love to kick back their heels and enjoy good living.” And if that bit of PR bumf isn’t going to make the innocent among us cynical what is.
I’m not sure about you, but that descriptor conjures up imagery of a decadent wannabe Shoreditch speakeasy full of bearded tattooed hipsters with crombies and people eating bowls of cereal. The Lucky Pig however is nothing of the sort. In fact it’s a very conventional bar (square, bar to front, brasserie to rear) on a very conventional road in Fulham. It had great live music when we visited, but the music was very Ed Sheeran rather than roaring twenties. It had cocktails – very good I might add – but the Lucky Pig has the atmosphere of a brasserie. Or a gastropub even.
The food is superb. My friend’s smoked salmon salad starter was an excellent summer cooler as apparently was the Pimms Royal that preceded it. My Wild Rabbit and Creamed Leek Tartlet was rich and flavoursome game served in a perfect pastry case. My friends duck was again delicious, very nicely cooked, and worked well with the sweet potato side. My yellow fin tuna was pan-fried caramelised on the outside and extremely rare through the core. Perfect in other words. The Belgian Chocolate and Cherry Delice I tried was too rich for my taste, but that’s how it’s meant to be and I should know better.
The service was charming and efficient if not a shade nervous – clearly my wannabe Jay Rayner status precedes me. The space and ambience though is a little odd. There is a lack of flow between the dining, drinking and music space.
Would I go to the Lucky Pig again to eat? Definitely. Would I go to for a Boardwalk Empire experience of debauchery and illicit drinking? Maybe not. I think that’s best left to East London’s hipsters.
From * to *****
Boozing and schmoozing ***
Wining and dining *** ½
Flirting and partying ***
The Lucky Pig, Fulham
374 North End Road, Fulham SW6 1LY
Tel: 0207 3851300