they have restored a beautiful Victorian boozer to a slice of West London gastro glory complete with its own microbrewery
I can’t keep up with the Martin brothers. For those of you who aren’t familiar with Ed and Tom, you probably have been to at least one of the ETM group’s pubs. Whether it is the gloriously rustic Jugged Hare, the Clerkenwell stalwart, the Well, or the best thing about Canary Wharf that is One Canada Square. The brothers have 11 venues when I started writing this, and another one in the City by the time I’d finished.
I happen to be a fan with love that borders on foodie groupieism – if that’s a word. I’ve been to most of their gastropubs and loved every one. Don’t believe me? Look at my earlier reviews and note the shameless adoration. It’s verging on embarrassing.
SEE ALSO : One Canada Square, Canary Wharf
I finally met one of the brothers at the opening bash for the Ealing Park Tavern and I nearly blushed. Hence for this review I deliberately took my time, and was determined to write something that was fair but tough. They’ve had it too easy from me for too long.
Easier said than done. As with their other pubs, they have restored a beautiful Victorian boozer to a slice of West London gastro glory complete with its own microbrewery. The game and seafood on offer was as good as with any of their joints. I tried the tavern croquettes of shrimp, bacon, black pudding and brawn which oozed flavour and a few calories. While the fish of the day monkfish was muscular and full of flavour. The sticky toffee fondant wasn’t what I expected, and probably too sweet, but it still did what it said on the box.
As with their other places the local hipsters, city workers, and yummy mummies have taken hold, but it steel feels like a good old fashioned boozer. But in a very good way.
Searching for criticism, the service was a little mixed – more through over-enthusiasm than technical – and our table was a little bit small. But that’s it; no mas; nothing else to say. What these guys do, they do very well. And it’s not just me but an army of London drinkers and diners who seem to agree. The Ealing Park Tavern is another success from a very good pub group. No doubt I’ll see you at their Bishopsgate pub. I’ll be the one wearing the ETM tee-shirt.
From * to *****
Boozing and schmoozing ****1/2
Wining and dining ****
Serving and pouring ***1/2
Ealing Park Tavern
222 South Ealing Road, London, Ealing W5 4RL
T: 020 8758 1879