the Brindisa brand is now an established byword for quality Spanish food.
Brindisa has come a long way in a short time. From hip and grungy tapas bar in Borough Market to a bespoke restaurant collection in London’s hottest hangouts, the Brindisa brand is now an established byword for quality Spanish food. But with increased size comes increased scrutiny, and their latest venture, Morada Brindisa Asador in the heart of Soho will be an interesting test of their brand mettle.
I went to the opening party for Morada which was not the normal drink and canapés bash (good for getting drunk, not so good for reviewing food) but a full service, albeit in soft launch mode.
Morada is built on the sites of two former restaurants, so it’s big - 75-covers – and is dominated at the centre by a 360-degree bar and kitchen area where the majority of the seating is situated. Its rustic Iberian styling is in keeping with their other venues and the ambiance is very festive and authentically Spanish.
The menu is largely focused around cooking over charcoal and includes techniques from across Spain where asadors are ubiquitous. Dishes are prepared and cooked at the bar, in the Josper oven or over the Robata grill. The menu puts a big emphasis on meat, seafood and vegetables; grilled, roasted, stewed and braised.
I followed the recommendations of the team, and tried a little of everything. Particular highlights were the fried Adobe Dogfish with crispy cabbage – much better than it sounds; Moorish Iberico Pork And Jowl Pincho – gloriously melt in your mouth indulgent; and the Milk fed Lamb – a very guilty pleasure.
Also warranting special mention were the cured tuna with almonds and the anchovy fillets – both dishes were rich, salty and big but small dishes. I didn’t try dessert as i was happier savouring the savouries.
If I had to criticise the original Brindisa it’s that it was so popular you could never get a seat. Morada will be equally as popular but with planning on the diners’ part, should be able to accommodate most requests. And trust me; there will be a lot of requests. It’s come a long way from Borough Market, but Morada should pass any brand mettle test.
From * to *****
Wining and Dining ****
Flirting and partying ****
Serving and pouring ***
Morada Brindisa Asador
18-20 Rupert Street, Piccadilly W1D 6DE