La Tagliata serves simple dishes that are full of flavour.
I love Italy. For people, scenery and culture it’s a country that I’ve never tired of. And of course there is the effortless simplicity of the food - superb flavours, easy on the palate but very difficult to execute. As you will discover in many of the faux West-End trattorias.
La Tagliata is not in the West End but in the heart of the City – a skip away from Bishopsgate and Liverpool Street station, but tucked away down the village-like Sandy’s Row. The team behind La Tagliata has converted a fairly unmemorable Indian restaurant into a beautiful, multi-roomed restaurant. From the Dispensa (pantry); Salotto (drawing room); or Studio (study); to the Sala da Pranzo (dining room); Biblioteca (library); Cantina (wine cellar); and Salla della Musica (music room) they’ve made a relatively big space feel intimate. Quirky touches include bespoke Modigliani-style paintings and bottle-lined walls, as well as bookshelves laden with classic tomes and cubbyholes with vintage pasta machines.
It was very quiet the night we visited (there’s no background music that we noticed) but that helped us appreciate it. Not to mention the attentive yet understated service. The menu is deliberately simple and fuss-free. Primi, Secondi and Dolci. I followed the maître d’s lead and started with the tagliatelle limone. The pasta was beautifully cooked while the sauce was surprisingly subtle. For mains I couldn’t look past La Tagliata itself. This adaption of the Tuscan dish has English sliced strip loin steak from a family-run Smithfield butcher served medium rare, on a bed of rocket, parmesan and cherry tomatoes with a balsamic reduction. It was very well cooked and very tasty. As an added bonus it's apparently low in calories - which was wonderful news for the weight conscious among us. Desserts, on the other were not so diet friendly. Especially when I decided to try both the panna cotta and the tiramisu. Both were gorgeous interpretations of the classics.
The wine selection is also small but very considered. The house Primtivo from Apulia was very drinkable. The prosecco from Veneto was similarly so.
La Tagliata is quiet without being overly formal; and serves simplistic dishes that are full of flavour. If you want a wild party night, go to the West End. But if you are after effortless simplicity in the City, this is worth a try.
On a scale of * to *****
Wining and Dining ****
Flirting and frolicking **
Serving and Pouring ***
11 Sandy’s Row London E1 7HW
Tel: 020 7247 2818
www.la-tagliata.com; Twitter: @TagliataLondon